28 Jul

Avoiding freebies in Barcelona

Custom House” by flickr user Davido

During our one day in Barcelona, we started with an early morning walk to Las Ramblas, the main drag and tourist trap. Seeking a city map, we approached a tourist information booth.

The booth was surrounded by barkers for a tour bus, who mobbed us, and anyone else passing by.

We studiously ignored them. Having lived and traveled in Asia, where people on the streets are extremely interested in catching your attention to sell you something, anyone who starts following us on the street saying “Hello!? Hello!? English? How are you?” just gets tuned out. I mean, we walk past those people as if they are invisible. Whatever they’re selling, there is about 0.01% chance we want it.

No one in China ever seemed bothered when you ignored them, or answered with the standard “bu yao” (don’t want)[1], but these Barcelona pushers seemed genuinely offended by us.

When we made it past them to the actual booth, the woman there explained that she could sell us a city map for 1 euro. Lame, we thought. Everywhere else they give you maps for free.  But, she continued, pointing to the tour pushers who we’d snubbed, they will give you a map for free.

Ah, well, then. Guess we should have listened to them this time around.

Of course, we still didn’t want to engage with the barkers. So, to save face, we asked where we could acquire a regional map, which we needed for route planning anyway. A bookstore.

The moral of the story? Well, there’s a couple conclusions to draw. First, that the taller half and I are stubborn and have a lot of (perhaps occasionally misguided) pride about traveling independently without falling into tourist traps. Second, Barcelona is no Beijing. And finally, what the heck, 1 euro for a map?

(We got along fine with a smart phone and the system maps in the metro.)

[1] Funny story from someone’s China memoir, although I’m sorry to say I can’t remember which one. After passing the same street sellers for weeks, and every day telling them “bu yao!” this particular expat had been learning some Mandarin. One day as she went by, she expanded her statement on noninterest to “don’t want yesterday, don’t want today, don’t want tomorrow!” And they smiled and laughed at her. And probably continued to pitch to her the next day and every day until she left the area.

03 Apr

New Adventures – Bike Touring in Europe

My husband and I are leaving tomorrow for a bike tour of Southern Europe.* We are flying to Rome and from there we will start to meander towards Spain.
I say meander because we don’t have any specific plans except for the first five days in Rome. We’ll stay and see the sights, get over jet lag and witness whatever Catholic extravaganza accompanies Easter in Rome. I don’t really know what Easter in Rome will be like–and yes, I could probably just Google it, but then there’s no surprise–but I imagine it involves more parades and less chocolate rabbits than in America.
It’s all speculation right now, though. What’s concrete and knowable is what we’re packing, although of course there’s some speculation involved about what items we really need.
So, this is what I’m planning to use for the next two months.
Click to biggify!
Not all of my purple items show up that well
against the purple bedspread. Go figure.

First, everything is going to go into the Ortlieb Backroller Classic Panniers, which I got in the awesome yellow dot style.

More or less from left to right

  • Gray North Face polyester/merino long sleeve warm layer
  • Light blue tank top, light blue sleeveless bike jersey
  • Black Mountain Hardware long sleeve (something like this)
  • Tan long sleeve button up quick drying shirt
  • Merrell Women’s Bare Access Arc shoes – less than 10 oz. for the pair!
  • Shimano mountain biking style bike shoes
  • Novara Express 2.0 bike jacket in beautiful purple, black rain pants
  • 2x Canari gel liner cycle shorts, 3x non-cotton quick drying undies, 2x Moving Comfort sports bras, 4x cycle socks
  • Merrell Alexandra dress, which is so comfy that I sleep it in all the time, and black leggings to wear under it or on cold cycling days
  • Bike helmet
  • 2x pair of shorts, one purple, one blue-gray, and a pair of capri length spandex, something like this
  • 1x batik sarong for use as scarf, towel, skirt, etc and 1x purple tiedye bandana
  • Orange REI stuff travel pack
  • Mess of toiletries/first aid, incl. one wee loofah, one bottle Dr. Bronner’s soap, one large bottle sunscreen, bandaids, neosporin, painkillers, hand sanitizer, tiger balm, chapstick, handwarmers
  • Small camera w/ case & battery charger
  • Little blue flashlight
  • Kindle, small notebook, pencil
  • Lady kit
  • Shea butter & tea tree/vitamin E creme for prevention & treatment of saddle sores
  • Red dry bag containing REI Halo 40 degree down bag
  • 3L platypus bladder
  • Sunglasses
  • Leatherman, multi-tool, bike lights, spare tubes, patch kit, chain lube
  • You can never have too many zip ties

Not pictured – toothbrush and a few other personal items, sleeping pad (I’m about to swap this for this because dammit, for two months of regularly sleeping on the ground, I want that extra half inch of cushion), and my husband’s pile of gear, and the common gear – a variety of tools, spare parts, a tent, the same cookset and sporks we take camping, the initial set of trail mix we’ll be bringing along so when we get to Rome and we’ve been awake forever but we have to be awake a little longer to put the bikes together and figure out how to get to where we’re staying we will be sleepy but not starving.

And there’s also the bikes, which are semi-disassembled and packed into boxes which are triple reinforced with tape at all the corners. We’ve said a few prayers of safety over them, and I made some hand-written signs that say

Please, be gentle with my bike! His/Her name is Virgil/Beatrice and we are going from Rome to Barcelona.

Per favore, siate gentile con la mia bicicletta! Il suo nome e Virgil/Beatrice e stiamo andando da Roma a Barcellona.

(Because we’re heading towards Barcelona, at least.) But my taller half says I’m not allowed to tape them to the boxes in case we somehow have to convince the check in agents that these bike boxes do not in fact contain bikes. Just crazy American cardboard luggage. Very sustainable. I’m sure it’ll soon be the next big craze, just wait for it to catch on across the pond, amirite? I’m not sure how that will go down with British Airways but we already made sure boxes are within the specified measurements for British Airways so it has to go smoothly. *fingers crossed*

*If your reaction is anything like 100% of the people we’ve told about this, then yeah, I know you’re jealous. Except maybe for the biking uphill in the Alps part.